Sometime in early 2025, as I recall, maybe before then, Sam mentioned interest in going to dive Croatia. Given the reputation of that area of the Adriatic Sea – how could we turn it down? The aim was to go in September, towards the end of the tourist season. Surprisingly, there were only 5 of us, Sam – of course, Hazel, Debbie, Keith and me. The target was Pongo Diving Centre, Primošten. Off we go – uneventful flights, collected in timely fashion and driven to the accommodation – a self-catering flat 10 min walk away from the dive shop.
The folks at the dive centre were well-organized, the boats had plenty of space (even if they seemed to lack emergency oxygen!), and the briefings clear and sensible. Given the location and the tendency of the daily wind, the maestral, from the north-west, to build to a strength in the afternoon that would make diving difficult and the travel uncomfortable, diving was to start early and finish around lunchtime. That meant we had a reasonably easy tear-down, wash and pack away early afternoon, and time to organize for the evening. Kit was handily stored in a lock-up, only once complicated by the absence of a key…
The dive guides were good, very friendly and more than helpful. Nitrox fills were accurate and spot on for pressure. Highly recommended. The lock-up, however, was some 10 or 12 m above sea-level, where there was a simple landing stage, meaning that there were a number of steps to traverse. Down was easy, up was harder!
The diving was excellent – clear waters, with 15-20 m vis as a routine, with plenty to see, even if inshore we were often swimming over seemingly endless weed to get to the good bits. There were a variety of types of site, supported by rather good sketches – a couple of wrecks, fallen lighthouse, cliffs, small caves… that kept the interest up. We had one night dive, in “Pongo Bay” – not sure if that is a real name – but that to describe it as the ‘house reef’ was a stretch: a lot of weed and a bit muddy. There were octopus and some fish, but hardly worth the effort, to my mind but as a training site – super!
Evenings were mostly spent in the old town, on an island that is now joined permanently by a causeway. Live music, lots of restaurants (many with identical menus but different prices! – same kitchen?), and the usual numerous tat shops, and a mooring for a row of gin palaces. The headland opposite has the Our Lady of Loreto monument, a very popular place to have a beer and watch the sunset.
We were surprised to find that in a few days the entire place would close – for the winter. Nothing would be functioning! That meant there would be no flights either – no tourists would mean it would be pointless. Many drive down from northerly locations, but even that would stop if nothing is open.
Sam did a good job in organizing – and thanks were effusive.